The Ultimate Guide to Diving Isla Mujeres, Mexico.

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Ready for another Mexican diving adventure? Want something easy but really beautiful? Look no further than diving Isla Mujeres. The island off the coast of Cancun is a Caribbean paradise above and below the surface. 

All the details about scuba diving in Isla Mujeres and practical tips for your trip in this post. 

THE INS & OUTS OF DIVING ISLA MUJERES

What makes Isla Mujeres diving so special?

Isla Mujeres is in the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef, the second largest barrier reef in the world. This means underwater beauty with coral gardens and plenty of marine life, big and small. 

But actually, it is not so much the diving that makes the island on the Riviera Maya, not far from Cancun so special. Rather it is the whale sharks that flock to the island’s north each year that draws visitors from all over the world. 

Whale shark diving in Isla Mujeres however is not a thing. Instead, you can go snorkeling with them. Still, there is much to see if you prefer to dive and I think the island can very much hold its own compared to its famous neighbors like Cozumel or Playa del Carmen.

The best time to dive in Isla Mujeres

You can go scuba diving in Isla Mujeres all year long and the temperatures will usually hover around 28 °C. The best travel time for the Riviera Maya and diving in the Carribean in Mexico is usually December to April. However, this also means bigger crowds and higher prices, especially around Christmas and New Year’s, and of course U.S. Spring Break. 

I went in May and while it was hot and lovely landside, surface conditions were a bit rough at times. June through November is hurricane season and while the area usually doesn’t get the brunt of it, it can get choppy and harbors may close. It also means that the visibility can suffer. 

Still, for whale shark encounters you will want to risk it as those come from May/June to September. If you come in May and June and you will be rewarded with turtle p*rn as well. No kidding because these months mean turtle mating season!

If you are a fan of eagle rays come from early November to March for the best chance of seeing fevers* fly by.

*A fever is what you call a group of rays. 

The best Isla Mujeres Dive Sites

As mentioned above, Isla Mujeres is part of the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef like the other places on the Yucatan Peninsula. A fact I found interesting especially if you compare diving Isla Mujeres vs Cozumel. I personally preferred its underwater topography and thought it was so much more colorful and lively compared to its famous neighbor. 

Most of the dive sites don’t go deeper than 30 m and some of the best are quite beginner friendly as well. There is even a dive site where you can practice drift diving. How cool is that?

There are also a couple of wrecks at a depth of 24-30 m. Here are some of the dive sites I went to:

MUSA Underwater Museum

The probably most famous dive site in Isla Mujeres is MUSA. It is basically a huge underwater museum. It was brought to life by locals and a British sculptor to offset the damage that is done to the beautiful reefs in the area by the huge amount of visitors each year. 

There are various ‘galleries’ in the water between and around Isla Mujeres and Cancun. 

The statues will create new coral reefs and fish residences over time, and pieces are made from PH-neutral marine concrete. 

MUSA has a dive site has probably the most statues and elements, some fun and some a little disturbing. The actually statues were modeled after local residents. Find someone and ask to see their MUSA t-shirt – it usually has their photo and that of their statue. 

Even if you are ‘just’ an Open Water Diver you can dive MUSA as it is no deeper than 9 m. They also have a lot of snorkeling tours and glass-bottom boat trips going there. 

Manchones Reef

A trip to Manchones Reef is usually paired with a MUSA dive. It is another spot where you can find two museum-worthy pieces: “The Man on Fire” and “The Ernest Hemingway Desk” (aka a bar). 

Honestly, you don’t need more because this reef can shine all on its own. Healthy corals, I especially loved the fan corals, and schools of snappers and other reef fish everywhere. With a bit of luck stingrays and even nurse sharks. It is a beauty, don’t forget your camera!

Punta Sur

Punta Sur was the place we all came for. After all, this is the dive site where you are promised turtles. Yes, actually promised. After all Isla Mujeres is right in the middle of the turtle migration path. This means lots of turtles nesting on the beaches. And before they nest, they must mate and you can watch. 

Punta Sur is a strong drift dive and drift you will. Most dive centers will only take advanced divers and ask about your drift experience. It is honestly not for the faint-hearted as you will usually do a negative entry but in quite shallow water (about 3 m). Make sure you have all your camera bits and bobs secured so your flash doesn’t come off while you jump. This may or may not have happened to a certain someone….luckily my buddy was quick to grab it before we flew off. 

After a bit of drifting, the current just stops and that is when you will see all the turtle action. Honestly, I have never seen that many turtles in my life. If you think Gili Air has a lot of turtles, think again. 

And yes, they are doing it. There is no other way to put it. Luckily they don’t mind if you watch or film but I felt a bit sheepish, to be honest. 

If you get very lucky you may also see some late in the season eagle rays. After your dive finishes the boat will pick you up amongst the turtles, so no need to struggle back.

Sleeping Shark Caves & Pailas

Hailed as an exciting dive in Isla Mujeres many head to the so-called Sleeping Shark Caves. Once again, it was Jacques Cousteau who set the expectations quite high. 

For me, this was probably the most disappointing dive of them all. Not only because there were no sleeping sharks in sight but because I have never seen conditions quite that bad. 

There are supposed to be nurse sharks in those caves but according to my guide, they are rarely seen these days. Now we all know how it goes with nature but I would double-check with your dive center when they were last seen before booking this dive. Because otherwise, this dive site isn’t the greatest especially when conditions aren’t top notch. 

Palais on the other hand is another beautiful reef, often combined with the sleeping sharks. Fun swim-throughs, beautiful fan corals, and lots of flamingo tongues. If you like macro life and nudis as I do, they will tide you over until you get back to Amed or Mabul. 

The best diving center in Isla Mujeres

After a lot of consideration and planning, I went with Aqua Adventures Eco Divers. They are a PADI 5 Star Dive Center and have a lovely little shop in the Centro headed by Jason, the dive center manager, and Jessica, the office manager. 

I dove with instructor Nina from Austria and they had a very dedicated boat crew headed by Captain Wilbert. Briefings are done at the dive shop before and the crew will organize getting tanks and gear to/from the boat. They have their own boat that leaves from the pier at Av Rueda Medina, a 5-minute walk from their shop. 

Aqua Adventures offers small group sizes and they allow you to dive your tank (so no set dive time). They also treat you to some of the best chocolate chip cookies ever during surface interval.

They can also help you with accommodation bookings and offer their own whale shark adventures in season. 

I will say, their booking system is a bit unique. They do offer various dive packages and basically whoever books first determines where they will dive on a given day. I guess this first-come first-serve system is fair but can be a bit frustrating if you have a limited amount of time on the island or want to see something very specific. That said, they will try their utter best to arrange the schedule so you get to the dive sites you really want to see. 

If you are staying at Selina they also have their own on-site dive center, called Pocna. If you enjoy the social aspect of diving and hanging out with your buddies before and after a dive, this might be the better choice.

How much is Isla Mujeres scuba diving? 

Dive trips in Isla Mujeres start at $100 for a 2-dive adventure. This will include a professional guide, boat crew, marine park fee if applicable, tanks and weights, snacks, and water. Depending on the kind of dives and location you may pay a little more. 

Rental gear will cost about $25 per day extra. If you are planning to dive a lot, it is well worth it to bring your own equipment. 

If you want to head to Playa del Carmen for a bull shark dive or to dive in the cenotes it can be organized but will be a bit more expensive. That said, especially cenote dives are always quite pricey (think $200 + for 2 dives) so if you are short on time it might be a good idea to stay on Isla Mujeres and do all your dives from there. 

Check with your dive center how payments are handled. Some charge extra for credit card or PayPal payments, so it might be worth getting enough cash. 

How much to tip when diving Isla Mujeres? American tipping culture has come to Mexico. As an average many divers tip $10 per tank which is usually divided between boat crew and guide. That said, I don’t adhere to this ‘rule’ and tip what I see fit. I just make sure that the crew and guide share it. 

How to get to Isla Mujeres

To get to Isla Mujeres you will need to take the ferry from Cancun. There are different ports and one of the busiest is Puerto Juarez. Ultramar, one of the ferry companies, also departs from Playa Caracol and Playa Tortugas. Xcaret Xailing Ferries leave from El Embarcadero Isla Mujeres in the Cancun hotel zone. 

I took the Ultramar from Puerto Juarez which goes to the pier in the center of Isla Mujeres (so north of the island). The trip takes half an hour and ferries go every 30 to 60 minutes. 

How to get to the pier for as little as possible? The age-old question in Cancun… First, you should take the ADO bus to Cancun Centro. You will be coming either from Cancun International Airport or another destination like Playa del Carmen or Tulum. 

From Cancun Centro, you will have to take a taxi to Puerto Juarez (unless of course, you want to walk). This has a fixed price of 200 pesos ($11). Unfortunately, Uber is blocked in this area but I guess if you wanted to walk for a few blocks you can get one.

Tickets are about 270 pesos ($15) for a one way and you can either buy them at the counter or a machine. Alternatively, you can get them online beforehand. When I arrived it was not an issue though to just get my ticket then and there and hop on the next ferry leaving for Isla Mujeres. 

Make sure that if you buy a round-trip ticket to keep both pieces of paper – your receipt and your ticket. They are not one and the same as this traveler unfortunately had to realize upon returning. An expensive lesson. 

By the way, coming back to Cancun you are in luck – Uber will pick you up from Puerto Juarez, no problem. Perfect if you need to head somewhere in Cancun after or go to the airport as it will be a lot less than a regular taxi. 

Where to stay in Isla Mujeres

I am not going to beat around the bush: I found Isla Mujeres to be incredibly expensive and that says a lot after I had already spent two weeks on the Riviera Maya thinking nothing could be worse than Tulum prices. 

Accommodation on Isla Mujeres was no exception. It was either expensive or not very nice, usually both. While am generally not a fan of the brand, I finally settled on Selina. As you know my hostel days are over (in fact, I never had them) but they also have individual rooms. While I probably never paid as much for such a small room with a shared bathroom it was actually quite nice. I specifically asked for a room as far away from the noise aka the beach parties, and the lovely guy who checked me in complied. 

In addition, they have a great co-working room, an on-site dive center with a pool used for confined sessions, and a beach club and restaurant. The restaurant actually had really good prices especially compared to all the other options on the island.

My only complaint: the beach club is not run by Selina so if you are a hotel guest and want to use a sun lounger, you will still have to pay for a comfy cover. 

For those even more on a budget, you can also get a dorm room, and a friend of mine who stayed there said they were well-maintained and nice as well. 

Book a bed or room at Selina

Tips for your Isla Mujeres visit

SIM card: Unfortunately getting a local SIM card in Mexico is not as easy as simply going to a counter once you arrive at the airport. You will either have to find a Telcel store or make your life easy and get an eSIM before you arrive. While I usually think that eSIMs are too expensive, it will be about the same price as a Mexican SIM and just be a lot easier to organize. 

Get an eSIM for Mexico from Holafly

Money: There are plenty of ATMs on the island and drawing cash will have a fee of 55-75 pesos ($3-4) depending on the bank. Cash is still king in many places and Isla Mujeres is one of them. Many businesses charge an extra fee when using your credit card. 

How to get around Isla Mujeres: The island is home to fun golf carts and somewhat intoxicated shirtless Americans who are trying to not drive them off the road. Sorry, but it’s true. 

But yes, golf carts are the way to go though if you are staying in the Centro you can simply walk. Just watch out for those carts. 

There are regular cars as well but most people get by on golf carts, scooters, or on foot. 

Great Restaurants in Isla Mujeres

And of course, this hungry mermaid tasted her way around the island so you don’t have to. Be warned: Isla Mujeres prices are something else. Paying $20 for a simple lunch with a soft drink was pretty normal. They also often add a tip or ask for a “suggested tip”. 

Passion Fruits // By the time I arrived on Isla Mujeres, I was in desperate need of something fresh and healthy. Passion Fruits delivered. They have the same salad with tuna or chicken and it is full of fresh veggies and hits just the spot. They also make good smoothies and fresh juices. 

Al Natural // I was told Al Natural makes the best Al Pastor on the island and they did not disappoint. That said, you need to come at the right time. They only start later in the day with the Al pastor, but don’t come too late as they might have run out by then.

They also have nice fish tacos and were the first place that added a small side of guacamole with their taco trios. 

Pizza Bella Isla Mujeres // Once in a while you just need a good pizza and Pizza Bella will be it. They also have a really good 2-for-1 happy hour and their margaritas are amazing. 

If you are unsure, simply walk past during dinner time – all the pizza restaurants in Isla Mujeres give out samples in the evening!

Lola Valentina // Another recommendation, this was probably the fanciest place I ate at. I had both shrimp tacos and a shrimp burger which were equally delicious. The cocktails are good but nothing to write home about so I would stick with beer next time. 

The staff needs a special mention though – they were so lovely and kind, something I always remember when dining on my own. 

Oh my brunch // I went here twice as it was just opposite Selina. I truly love the interior and the concept, the food I am not sure about. I had a croffle which almost put me in a food coma but was fun to eat as well as a bowl. The bowl was a disappointment and this was probably the first time I was really miffed about Isla Mujeres prices. 

Things to do in Isla Mujeres

Done with your Isla Mujeres scuba diving and want some other activities? Whale shark snorkeling is probably the thing most people come for. The whale shark Isla Mujeres season runs from June to September though they were already sighted when I was there in May. 

Is it ethical? From what I have heard it is, unlike other places like the Philippines where they feed them. Plus restrictions are in place and you only get a couple of minutes with the whale shark before the next person can go in. It is also quite expensive and you will need to pay extra to take your GoPro or camera. 

I know I have been very fortunate to see many random whale sharks when diving, especially in Koh Tao and at Sail Rock. Bu I guess if you have not had that experience yet, it is worth it. 

Just make sure to research the operator well and read the reviews. 

Afterwards, head to Playa Norte, one of the most beautiful beaches on the Riviera Maya. This is the place to hang out, chill, and dip in and out of the warm water. And unlike many of the other beaches in the area, you don’t need to fork out for an expensive beach club and it is mainly free of Sargassum. Win-win!

Want to more diving in Mexico? Check out these articles:

THE ULTIMATE GUIDE TO DIVING IN PLAYA DEL CARMEN, MEXICO.

A GUIDE TO CENOTE SCUBA DIVING IN MEXICO.

A GUIDE TO THE BEST DIVING IN COZUMEL, MEXICO.